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Northern Prairie Chevre LLC is a partnership
involving three women, Wendy Mickle, Connie Lawrance, and Kathy Larson. Our
endeavors to craft the finest quality chevre evolved from our hobby of
raising goats. The herd name, Nubian Bubbies, was created by Kathy Larson and
Wendy Mickle in 1990. Our love of goats began when we purchased two 2-day old
Nubian kids - we quickly fell in love with Mik and Maude's long lopped ears
and sweet personalities. They stole our hearts and we were officially hooked
on goats from that day forward.
We purchased
two bred does with the intent of selling the kids to 4-H children. However,
after we finished bottle feeding the kids, we were too attached to sell
them. With more goats, there were more babies and a
lot of fresh milk. With the excess milk, we began experimenting with cheese
making. Family and friends (some of whom were daunted by the stigma of eating
anything produced by goats!) were our first test tasters. They loved it and
begged for more. Our friend, Connie Lawrance, of Murphy Creek Farm, was
enthused about the idea of cheese making and soon the Northern Prairie Chevre
partnership was formed. The milk for Northern Prairie Chevre is provided by
15 Nubian does. Nubians were chosen because of their wonderful personalities
as well as the high butterfat content in their milk.
We believe in the
humane treatment of animals. Our grain is specially mixed and does not
contain any growth hormones, antibiotics or additives. In addition to clean
hay, they are encouraged to graze on pasture and treated very much like
members of the family.
Our cheeses are hand made in the traditional farmstead
manner with the freshest local ingredients, and no added chemicals or
preservatives.
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Country Home. October 2001
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Iowa Ingenuity - A NEW BREED OF CHEESE
When Wendy Mickle brought home her first two goats, it was
purely aesthetic reasons. "We just thought they were so cute," says Wendy,
"And so affectionate!" The relationship quickly turned practical,
however when the two-goat family grew into a 38-member herd. "There was so
much milk!" With the help of friends Kathy Larson, and Connie
Lawrance, a solution was born Today the three women turn out 100 pounds of
cheese per week, all from Kathy and Wendy's 6-acre farm near Woodward, Iowa.
Their brand, Northern Prairie Chevre, comes in three varieties: chevre
(infused with herbs from Connie's garden), feta (a perfect choice for our
Beet and Feta Salad, page 172), and a crumbly slicing cheese called Caprine
Farmhouse. All three bear a fresh flavor and smooth texture that is
attributed to the farm's particular breed of goat, Nubian. So far the fromage
has been known only in bistros, grocers, and farmers markets of central Iowa,
but now artisan cheese lovers everywhere can get a taste of what they're
missing. Available from Wheatsfield Grocery, 515/232-4094.
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The Iowan. January/February 2002
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Mike and Maude, two baby Nubian goats, were the beginning of
Northern Prairie Chevre, LLC, a cheese company in Woodward, Iowa. More goats
equaled more fresh milk, and experimenting with the goat milk resulted in a
tasty, fresh chevre. On September 15, 2000, after an approved milk parlor was
built and a two-car garage was converted into a licensed cheese-processing
kitchen, the company was born as a partnership among Kathy Larson, Wendy
Mickle, and Connie Lawrance.
Northern Prairie Chevre markets fresh chevre in several flavors, all made by
hand with fresh pasteurized milk and no additives or preservatives. The milk
is processed according to state regulations, cooled, innoculated with a
special cheese culture, and ripened. After being hung until firm, it is ready
to flavor and package. "We have a French-style feta cheese. It's less salty
and smooth and tangy," says Lawrance
The hard cheese process is different: Pasteurized milk is cooled and allowed
to briefly ripen before being placed in a mold overnight. The cheese is then
sliced into wheels, salted, and allowed to dry and age. Some cheeses-Caprine
Farmhouse, for example-are aged and turned only a short time. Others, such as
parmesan, are covered with a special wax and aged for six months to a year.
After the cheese has completed the aging process it's packaged and ready to
be purchased.
Wheatsfield Grocery of Ames; Campbell's Nutrition Center, The Wine
Experience, JT's Fine Wines and Spirits, all of Des Moines; and Goldfield
Cheese Mart of Goldfield carry Northern Prairie's cheese. Also Northern
Prairie cheeses can be found, in season, at the farmers markets. For more
information contact Wheatsfield Grocery by calling 515/232-4094 or writing
wheats@wheatsfieldgrocery.com.
-Abbie Hansen
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Des Moines Register. Wed. April 11, 2002
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Northern Prairie Chevre is the only farm in Iowa to make cheese
from its own herd - By Ellen Heath
The three owners of Northern Prairie Chevre cheered last week when a United
Parcel Service truck pulled up to their cheese kitchen on a farm north of
Woodward. The delivery van brought two boxes of parts for a goat-milking
machine. Kathy Larson, Wendy Mickle and Connie Lawrance are partners in
Northern Prairie Chevre, which licensed last September to make artisan
cheese.
Larson and Mickle have been milking six does by hand twice a day on their
6-acre farm. Two more will soon give birth and start providing milk. Four
more will be added to the herd by the end of the month for a total of 12
milking goats.
"We really enjoy milking the herd," Larson said, "but we realized that a
machine would help."
The women turn the milk into smooth chevre flavored with fresh herbs and
garlic, into a crumbly feta, and into a new, slicing cheese called Caprine
Farmhouse.
The cheeses are creamy and light. That's because the milk is processed
within 24 hours, the women say, and because their breed of goats, Nubian,
produces milk with a high percent of butterfat.
Northern Prairie Chevre introduced chevre at the Des Moines Downtown
Farmer's Market late last summer. Several retailers now sell both the chevre
and the feta. The Caprine Farmhouse will be in stores soon.
"Interest in local food systems has brought us into the picture very
successfully," Mickle said.
Linda Johnson of Wheatfield Grocery in Ames began carrying Nothern Prairie
products six months ago. Some of her customers had asked for goat cheese, but
"the biggest thing is that we really want to support our local producers."
Campbell's Nutrition Center in Des Moines also stocks the goat cheese
because it's locally made. Grocery manager Glenn Gibb said the chevre,
particularly the flavored versions, are popular.
At Campbell's a 4-ounce container of chevre costs $4.50. Two and a half
ounces of feta costs $3.75.
Still in the development stage at Northern Prairie are a Parmesan, cheddar,
and mozzarella.
Except for the milking machine soon to be in use, the cheeses are made
entirely by hand. Lawrence, 46, is the primary cheese maker in the business,
which turns out 100 pounds per week.
Her kitchen is a converted two-car garage. Inside are a stove, three
stainless steel sinks, a counter, shelves, a small table and two
refrigerators: one for raw milk and the other for pasteurized milk and
cheese.
She experiments with recipes from seminars and books. If family and friends
like the results, the recipe is a keeper. If not, she starts over.
"You're talking to a person who's just not really thrilled about cooking,"
she said, "but what I like about making cheese is the challenge of always
doing something different."
Making the cheese
To make basic chevre, Lawrance starts by pasteurizing the raw milk. Iowa
Department of Agriculture rules require her to heat the milk to 165 degrees
for at least 20 minutes. Afterward, it cools to between 72 and 80 degrees,
and Lawrance adds the starter culture.
The mixture then sits in a wide stainless steel cheese vat for at least 15
hours while the curd separates from the whey. The opaque, white curds fall to
the bottom while the clear whey floats to the top.
Lawrance ladles the curds into squares of cheesecloth. It hangs from
shelving for 12-15 hours, or until it becomes firm as even more liquid drips
out.
At the end of the process, Lawrance said, "it has the consistency of a firm
cream cheese, or a little drier. That's the point where we flavor it with
salt and herbs."
The pasteurization process method may also give the Northern Prairie cheeses
a different taste.
"Some people say it tastes a little caramelized," Lawrance said.
That's because it is held at a high temperature for a long time. Some goat
milk dairies flash-pasteurize their milk by heating it to an even higher
temperature, but for less than a minute.
Northern Prairie records its pasteurization process by computer. The state
inspector can read printouts that show the temperature the milk reached and
for length of time it was held. Each cheese package is also labeled with its
pasteurization batch number.
Northern Prairie is breaking new ground in Iowa has the only goat cheese
maker, but state dairy inspectors hold it to the same standards as other
dairies.
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